Blink and you’d literally miss Domaine Jean Tardy, an envelope-sized sign by a driveway off the RN74 just outside Vosne Romanée the only indication that you are in the right place.

Unprepossessing as this domaine looks, the wines continue to show plenty of personality and Guillaume does a particularly impressive line in vieilles vignes lieu dits (old vine, single vineyards), which allow him to “avoid making a bad marriage between the wrong parcels”.

The results are always seductive and digestible and compete with premier crus for quality and complexity.