You've selected a ES2233L with a BOTTOM UP ream.  This is VERY RARE.  Your tie rod tube should be under the steering arms, and the tapered hole for the drag link will be on the front bumper side of the tie rod end.

GM 1 ton tie rod taper with 7/8"-18 left hand threads.  This is not your typical tie rod end.  We've made the original steering stabilizer hole larger to accommodate a GM tie rod end.  You can find this used in our "T" style steering set ups.  If you're running your tie rod top down, use the drop down menu to select the correct configuration.  Check out the paragraph below the specifications to learn more about why these are the ends you want. 

Specifications:

• Overall length:  10-1/2"
• Socket diameter: 2"
• Taper: Chevy tie rod, 8:1 (or 1.5" over 12"), AKA 7 degrees (close, but not 7 ;)
• Hole taper:  Chevy tie rod (bottom up)
• Shank:  7/8"-18 left hand, 3-1/2" of threads
• Jam nut:  7/8"-18 left hand, 1-5/16" wrench size

Well, if you've read this far, you're interested in what sets Parts Mike's ends apart from the competition.  Read on, you won't be disappointed.  Our ends are specifically manufactured to our specifications.  Our design utilizes a chromoly tapered shaft and metal on metal ball and socket design.  You read that right; chromoly shaft and metal on metal ball and socket.  All the ends you find at the auto parts store use a plastic bushing between the ball and the socket.  When you're driving down the trail and smack a rock with your tire, the shock load through the steering system can cause that plastic to dent/deform/break.  What you end up with is a loose tie rod end instantly.  Our metal on metal design (forged outer housing and chromoly ball and shaft) means no plastic to break. Inside the socket is a spring that preloads the ball (similar to the upper kingpin in a Dana 60).  This keeps the end tight as the parts wear.