The Dom Pérignon 2013 has that classic Dom Pérignon balance of richness and precision. Fresh citrus, green apple and pear lead on the nose, with touches of stone fruit, almond and a faint smoky edge. The palate is taut and energetic, driven by bright acidity, but there’s depth too, with layers of fruit and a long, mineral finish.

2013 certainly kept growers on their toes. A cool, damp spring slowed things down, but then the weather turned and 2013 became the sunniest summer on record in Champagne. The heat gave great ripeness, though it also meant yields were lower than expected – the harvest ended up the same size as 2012 and came in about two weeks later than usual.

It’s a vintage that combines generosity with freshness – approachable now but clearly built to age.