This is a spectacular and rare suit from the Fall 2004 McQueen show and its near twin walked the runway that season for Look 31. I have only seen the jacket come up for sale but I have never seen both pieces together as the complete suit. The runway pieces were often not produced in significant numbers and were often only found at the flagship stores in very limited quantities. This masterpiece is from the Fall 2004 show entitled 'Pantheon Ad Lecum' or 'Towards the Light'. For this collection McQueen was quoted as saying that he wanted to 'strip away all theatrics and focus purely on design'. The colours in the show focused on a nude palette and tweed was a predominant element in the collection. He also kept the embellishments to the bare minimum throughout the collection and this is one of the few pieces that was highly embellished with his usual dramatic flair.

I love that this suit walks a line between day wear and evening. The tweed says day but as you look at the fabric closer you realize that it has been shot through with a subtle gold thread that elevates the fabric. The cut and line of the set reflect his master level tailoring skills and then the embellishment screams that this is indeed a McQueen piece of the highest caliber. Both pieces are made from a light brown tweed that has the gold shot through it as mentioned above. This gives it a very subtle metallic feel but its a detail that you only really notice when you are close to the suit. The pants are fantastic. They have a smooth flat front with a zipper closure and little scoop pockets on either hip at the waist. They are cut to skim over the hips and then the legs are wide and full. They are fabulously made and lined through the upper half. I love the matching jacket. It has lightly padded shoulders and the arms are long and cut with the precision that you expect from a McQueen piece. The waist is brought in just slightly and it is cut to sit just over the waist of the pants. Onto this is an elaborate embellishment that combines thick 3D braiding detail made from a deep muted gold real metal thread  hundreds of burnished gold metal studs in two sizes. These are set in an elaborate design that forms a shape to suggest his signature harness.  The applique work wraps over the shoulders,  narrows down and inward at the waist and then flares out to wrap around the hips. The same beautiful design is repeated on the back.The zipper is hidden at the front so when it is zipped you have this stunning almost breast plate feel. Every time I have a really good McQueen in the shop I am just blown away by his ability to create the lines he did and the level of craftsmanship that went into his pieces. This one is no exception and it is remarkable. I love it.  Excellent condition with a small note below

The pants are lined through to about the knee and close with a hidden set side zipper and a button at the waist. The jacket is fully lined in a muted gold silk and zippers to close at the front. Each sleeve has a hidden set zipper. Light padding in each shoulder. The jacket is tagged a McQueen 38. There is a tiny bit of stress at the seam at the top the shoulder to part of the embellishment. It's extremely minor but mentioned for accuracy. Please see the photo after the label shot.

Jacket
Sleeves: 24.5"
Slightly inset shoulders: 14"
Bust: 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bottom hem: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 20" from neck to hem

Pant
Waist: 14.5-15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 40.5" from waist to hem with 2" turned under
Inseam: 31.5"

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-MED

Item# DD4310

Reference Photos/Video: Fall 2004 Alexander McQueen Runway, Look 31. Model Hannelore Knuts.

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