Linen jersey rarely takes dye the way cotton does. Processed warm, the fibre resists; processed cold and after construction, it absorbs differently at the overlock channels, the neckline binding, and the seam that anchors the leather spine. The result on black is a layered charcoal rather than a flat colour - a surface that changes with how the light hits. The Steel Staple 69 at the back collar is the only hardware - a single gunmetal agrafe, cool against the skin until the neck warms it. Handmade at Sellam's Paris atelier, where the same cold-dye technique is used on leather goods two benches away.