Fascinating, left-field Sauvignon Blanc from Waipara, this is winemaker Theo Coles paean to the coastal beauty of NZ.

Some of the fruit is fermented as whole bunch and aged in stainless steel, some is fermented and aged in Spanish amphoras, and some neutral barrels are filled and left un-topped to develop a layer of flor yeast (a la Fino Sherry and Jura Vin Jaune).

All this leads to saline, crunchy mid-weight white with just a hint of floor, and a lovely orange peel character.

Theo Coles is the enigmatic wildman behind The Hermit Ram creations.

This is what happens when traditional winemaking techniques cross with a punk rock attitude.

His wines are raw and loaded with attitude. Little to no additions are utilised during the winemaking process as Theo attempts to get the purest expression of the vineyard into the bottle.

The Hermit Ram is one of the poster boys of the NZ natural wine scene.