Remember that Pantene commercial? The one with Kelly Lebrock in it? Where her perfectly backlit locks are swaying gently in the fake wind as she says, “Don’t hate me because I’m beautiful....” Sometimes I think of that when I think of the overly blessed Julien Sunier, who works magic year in and year out, climatic difficulties be damned. His Fleurie is his darling bottling, offering up floral aromatics typical of the region (violets and lavender pastilles), matched by rhubarb, raspberry, and dark boysenberry on the palate. Its sturdy structure is almost Morgon-ish (patient people will be ecstatic if they manage to sock one away for a few years), but right now it's 100% Swoon Juice.