Barolo isn’t the first or second or even tenth place I’d look to for Chardonnay, but Ettore Germano makes an excellent version that masquerades as Pouilly Fuisse. It’s clean and minerally and laced with Asian pear, apples, and meyer lemon. Bottle conditioning and lees aging—yes. Heavy oak—no. Noble Nebbiolo won’t be taking a back seat to Chardonnay any time soon, but Piedmont’s chalky soils and cool climate have produced an unusually delicious example right here.